OznAsia

We've been having an abundance of holidays here lately. After nine days straight for Songkran we had Coronation Day last Tuesday. Friday was Wesak and Monday the Royal Ploughing Ceremony. The astrologers who chose that date gave us another four-day weekend.

I decided that was a good opportunity for a change of scenery. I decided to go to Udon Thani because I remember that when I was there years ago there was a bookshop where I bought a few English-language second-hand books.

As I said it was years ago when I was last there. I figured my memories and a 2003 edition of LP Thailand would be enough for me to find everything I needed in Udon. I did have a quick look at a more recent LP a week or so ago and the description of one hotel being suitable for conversion as a prison made me think that the one I stayed in was still there. The 2003 edition also listed another in the same street that looked more promising. I figured with two in the same street I'd probably be able to find one that was suitable.

When I got off the bus, off course I was approached by a tuk tuk tout. I figured it wasn't too far to the hotel but it was hot so I asked him if he knew the street. He didn't. Nor did he know either of the hotels. I decided to trust my feet rather than a tuk tuk.

I walked up one of the streets running off the highway and shortly ascertained that it was the right one to get me where I was going. I came to a major intersection that looked promising. I asked a couple of passers by if it was Thanon Mak Khaeng. They said it was but didn't know the hotels. There was another hotel named Siri Udon in this street that looked about my budget level but I didn't remember seeing it in LP. When I reached the other end of the street I realised it was not Thanon Mak Khaeng at all but Thanon Amphoe. I remembered it from the LP map and knew I still had a way to walk in the heat.

Eventually I reached Thanon Mak Khaeng and walked up and down the block where I should have found the hotel Tang Porn Dhiraksa but I couldn't. No worries, the other one would do. Headed further up the block. And right where I remember my prison-like hotel being a few years back there is now a brightly coloured almost refurbished building that will no doubt be a hotel when it reopens. Or was Chaiya Porn hotel in the vacant block next door?

I found a shady seat and pulled out my 2003 LP again. Siri Udon was indeed listed and while they didn't say anything good about it, they didn't say anything bad. So I headed back there. They had a fan room for 180 baht. The sheets looked clean and so did the bathroom. The bed felt firm. I took it. The room was cool and the bed was comfortable. I crashed for about an hour.

It was already mid afternoon when I woke and I hadn't had any lunch so I headed off to find somewhere to eat. On the way I noticed the bookshop I wanted to visit and returned there after lunch. They mostly stock Thai books. In fact, from the front you'd think it was a specialist Buddhist bookshop but the back half of the shop has more general books. They used to have quite a few second-hand English language books but I must say the range has declined in those years. Perhaps they're not restocking as they sell them. I didn't see anything there I couldn't live without but still grabbed half-a-dozen that looked OK.

When I had paid for those I asked if they had any other English books. He said 'no'. But as I was leaving, walking through the Buddhist section, my eagle eyes noticed 'Monk in the Mountain' by Ajahn Sumano Bhikkhu. It looked appealing so I bought that too. When the shop man realised I was interested in Buddhism he went off and returned with a selection of books in English. Five of these were by Phra Buddhadasa (Buddhadasa Bhikkhu on the cover). I had owned one of them before but had to dispose of it when moving on. I bought all five. I might not see them again in a hurry—not likely in Mahasarakham anyway.


Vendors gather in Thanon Amphoe and around the corner in Thanon Pho Si selling Buddhist amulets and also some Buddha images. The amulets are supposedly blessed by monks and have powers. It is not unusual to see a man wearing five or more amulets around his neck. No doubt he thinks that'll protect him from his bad karma. I don't go in for this sort of thing. I believe the Buddha specifically denounced the practice. Still, I find it an interesting aspect of Thai culture. Newsagents stock many magazines for collectors of these amulets. When I went out for breakfast the next morning a stall had set up right outside the door of the hotel. They had a mountain of amulets selling for 20 baht each. I have a friend in Australia who is fascinated by Buddha images showing the Buddha in his anorexic stage. I thought I might find an amulet like that. I did but the woman said it wasn't the Buddha. I asked who it was and she replied 'Samdet'. I would have liked to know more but that was the extent of my ability in Thai. I found another that interested me. A Buddha-like image with hands covering eyes. I asked what it was and she said 'pit dah'. I could already see that. 'Pit dah' equals 'eyes closed'. 'Thammai pit dah'. 'Why are the eyes closed?' I asked. But once again her answer was beyond my Thai language ability. I bought both of them anyway. I'm not sure what these are going to do for me. Maybe I'll never get fat nor see any evil.

Labels: Asia, Buddhism, hotel, thailand, travel, Udon Thani

I wrote a review of Tune Hotel in Kuala Lumpur some time back. Have returned there recently as I stopped over in KL on my way to and from India. I think an update is appropriate.

They now have a safe in the rooms, big enough to hold a laptop and more. I had some difficulty reading the instructions which are printed on the door. The positioning of the safe on the floor means that one needs to get down on the floor to read it and if your eyesight is not great for reading, the small type size is not going to help. On the first of my recent visits I only stayed one night and gave up trying to figure it out. On the second visit I stayed two nights and ended up asking the front office staff for instructions. It's easy when you know how: just enter a pin number of your choice followed by the hash key and the door locks. Repeat the same pin and hash and the door opens again. Just don't forget your pin.

If you want air-con at Tune it's an optional extra. I'm not big on air-con. I prefer to live without it. As regular readers of this blog know, a little heat doesn't bother me. In my room in Bangkok I would turn on the air-con when I came in on a hot day and leave it on for about ten minutes. That was enough to bring the room to a temperature that suited me. On a really hot day I would turn it on again no more than once an hour for about five minutes.

At Tune you pay in advance for five or twelve hours of air-con. This is registered electronically on your keycard. On the first of my recent visits I probably used about half of my five hours. When I checked out I asked if the balance could be credited for my next visit. They said 'no'.

On the second visit I once again took five hours. I used my usual method of conserving electricity. In fact the weather wasn't hot. I arrived during the evening. I went out for breakfast and a walk the next morning. When I returned the air-con was not working. I figured I'd used less than an hour of my five. I went to the counter and a staff member, ever-polite, came to check it for me. He had an electronic card that he said could check to see if there should be any balance in my account. The card showed I had none.

Now there are two possibilities, either I made a mistake or the card did. If I made a mistake I am a long way out. I reckon I'd used less than one hour. You figure it—five minutes maybe five times, even if you double it, that's less than an hour. But five??? I suggested the technology was faulty but he politely told me it is never faulty and if I want more air-con I'd have to pay for it. Well, I'm afraid I don't believe in paying for something twice. I declined.

Watch this space. Next time I go to KL I'll be reviewing another budget hotel.

Labels: Asia, hotel, KL, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia, travel

I'd prefer to be stuck in 40 degree heat than ten degree cool. For the past six years or more, I've happily avoided temperatures below 15 degrees. And now I find myself in this hill station at the foot of the Himalayas—Mussoorie. The people of Delhi (or at least the well-heeled ones) flock here by the thousands during the heat waves of India's summer months. But I'm not visiting during the summer months. I'm here during early November, the start of India's winter.

My first three days in Mussoorie were spent at Hotel Padmini Nivas which was once the palace (or at least holiday home) of a maharajah. Much of Mussoorie was built on steep hillsides and my room was built to take advantage of excellent views. There is a sun room at the front with floor to ceiling glass. It warms up beautifully during the day and keeps the whole room warm during the night. This hotel also has a reputation for its excellent Gujarati vegetarian food.

Most of the action in Mussoorie centres on The Mall. It's supposed to be for pedestrians and rickshaws only but somehow many motorcycles and a few cars find their way in too. Young guys on motorcycles are not always cautious but they usually sound their horn before they run you down.

Even at this time of the year The Mall is full of tourists, mostly Indians. It also has many vendors and shops selling food, souvenirs, clothing and just about anything else you might need. The Mall winds a bit and goes over a few hills as you might expect here in the mountains. There are also many places to take advantage of the spectacular views.

The booking at Hotel Padmini Nivas was only for three nights because a religious convention was booked in after that. Looking at some other hotels on the mall, Hotel Garhwal Terrace had nice rooms at a better rate than Hotel Padmini Nivas but I think this was only because Garhwal Terrace had already switched to off-peak rates. Hotel Padmini Nivas were due to bring their rates down a week later.

Instead of staying at the Mall, I ended up at Landour, a little further up the mountain. There I found Ivy Bank Guest House and moved in the next day.

This is a wonderful setting. If I feel like immersing myself in the local culture, meeting some of the colourful locals or doing some shopping I walk down the narrow winding road to Landour Bazaar. To immerse myself in nature I walk further up the mountain and enjoy spectacular views including the snow-capped mountains in the distance. I'm told the snow will be coming here too if I stay a little longer.

I love it here. I'd like to stay longer but for the past couple of days the clouds have come in and the temperature has dropped. Ivy Bank Guest House is very cosy but has no heating. I've got thermal underwear, a fleece jacket and a woollen hat with built-in mufflers but this is still too cold for me. I haven't heard what the temperature is but a few days back there were Americans here (from Northern USA) who were commenting on the cold. And now even the locals are wearing their cold-weather gear.

I'd love to come back when it's warmer but then I'd have to contend with crowds and higher prices. We'll see.

As a footnote I'd add that there is a huge range of eating places both in The Mall and Landour Bazaar. Prices are generally reasonable. There are also many hotels and guest houses scattered around both The Mall area and Landour. I gather they fill up in the summer months but if, unlike me, you don't mind the cold there are many to choose from in the off season at very good rates. Like most places here Ivy Bank Guest House has a dining room. They provide Indian style home-cooked meals. For a change, you can get Western style fare at Chhaya Cafe, between the guest house and the Bazaar. Recommended.

Labels: Asia, holiday, hotel, India, travel

As a perpetual traveller it is necessary that I find accommodation within my budget. I live on a small pension. I live simply. I can keep up this lifestyle so long as I can find accommodation that won't break my budget. I can splurge occassionally but I can't afford to stay in four star hotels all the time.

In countries such as Thailand, Cambodia, Vietnam and in many parts of Malaysia I can find guesthouses and the occasional hotel with rates that are under $A10 per night. While these are certainly not luxurious I expect them to be clean and have basic comforts. In Singapore such rates are impossible so I simply don't stay there long. In Kuala Lumpur I either have to pay a little more or settle for something less than I like. In the past in Kuala Lumpur I have stayed in Wheelers Guesthouse. It scrapes through on price and barely scrapes through on standards.

Last year Tune Hotel opened in Kuala Lumpur. It has connections with AirAsia and has been promoting itself on the internet. AirAsia is a successful budget airline that I use often for getting around Asia. If I book early enough or am flexible about dates and flight times I can usually get a pretty cheap fare. Why spend a day sitting on a bus when for only a few dollars more you can fly?

Tune Hotel has similar promotional methods. If you book early enough and are prepared to pay in advance you can pick up some pretty good rates. They advertise rates as low as RM10 per night. That's about $A3. For special promotions they even advertise as low as 1 cent a night. To clarify this, advertising in Malaysia is not subject to the trade practices laws that protect us in Australia. As with AirAsia, advertised rates are not what you actually pay. There are a few extras that are added on. But it can still work out as a pretty good deal.

On my previous trip to KL, I tried to book for some particular dates but couldn't get a suitable rate. It was back to Wheeler's Guesthouse. This time I had a little more flexibility. After four months in Cambodia my budget is looking pretty good. Besides I was only staying for eight nights. I was able to get in at about $A24 per night all up.

Initially, I only booked one night. Having never stayed there before, I wasn't prepared to lay my money down and then find after the first night that I hated the place. Nor had I been able to find a review on the net. Hopefully this blog will remedy that situation for other travellers. Tune Hotel is on a very busy intersection close to the centre of KL. The traffic rarely stops and the monorail runs right past. I pictured myself spending a sleepless night with the traffic noise. So, how was it? Read on.

Reaching the hotel is quite easy. Unless you're loaded down with luggage you can reach it on public transport. You'll find the directions on the Tune website so I won't repeat them here.
Staff are very professional and helpful. I give them full marks. Before I went to my room I asked about the rate if I decided to extend my stay. Fortunately it was under the amount I mentioned above.

Travellers from Western countries might be surprised by how small the rooms are. I've stayed in a similar hotel before so knew what to expect. BTW, I took a double room. It was only a couple of ringgit more for that than a single so why not? The room itself was only just a little bigger than the bed, ie there was room to walk around the bed. There are no chairs. There was simply no space for chairs. There is an entrance hallway and alongside that a bathroom. I was able to put my backpack in a corner where it wasn't in the way. I thought about a couple travelling with several suitcases. They might find it a bit tight. There are no wardrobes, just a couple of hooks on the wall and a shelf above the head of the bed.

Rooms either have a window opening onto the street or onto a void in the middle of the building. I got one of the middle rooms. Yes, it's boring not having a view but if you want somewhere to sit around and relax go a bit more upmarket. Tune is for people who just want somewhere to dump their stuff while they explore the city and come back to sleep. This outlook turned out to be a blessing for me. I could hardly hear any noise from the road. I could open the window and still get a good night's sleep. There was occasionally a little noise coming from other rooms but not so much that it was an issue. Once I realised this I booked the room for the rest of my stay.

Tune took over this building last year and refurbished it. It was previously another hotel. Generally everything is new and works. Unfortunately they've economised on one or two fittings that were perhaps there previously and this is a weakpoint but generally the standard of fittings and decoration is excellent. My room was tastefully decorated with a mural that was pleasant to my eyes. The walls both inside and outside the room are also adorned with advertisements. A fold-down table has been fitted to the wall at the end of the bed. It's been carefully designed so you can sit on the bed while using it as a desk or to eat a meal.

About the bed—the Tune website calls it a five-star queen-size bed. I don't agree. Maybe Asian queens are smaller than Westerners. I think in Australia the bed would barely be able to be called double. I slept diagonally. If two six footers slept in it their feet might hang over the end. The bed has plenty of comfort padding. This probably would suit most Westerners but in this regard I'm more like an Asian and prefer a really firm bed.

The room has several choices of lighting that can be adapted to suit your needs. There is one power point that takes a variety of plugs. I usually buy an adaptor plug in each country I visit. It was not necessary this time. I have several types of plugs that I've picked up in various parts of Asia and they all fitted. The room has four largish mirrors so there's no excuse for walking out looking scruffy (unless that happens to be your style).

The bathroom is adequate with hot and cold water and a shower with an excellent flow. It has an exhaust fan that comes on with the light. Towels are not provided but are available as an optional extra. There's a team of cleaners who do a good job.

Entry to the room is by electronic card that also controls the power once you are inside. If you don't close the door properly it beeps a friendly reminder. I found security to be quite good. There are also security staff on duty in the lobby.

Free internet access is available in a little internet 'cafe' in a room off the lobby. There are only five computers and occassionally they were all busy. Download speeds are reasonable. The computers appear to have no software installed other than Explorer. Other guest facilities include a coin-op laundry. There's a convenience store and couple of eateries in the lobby area.

If you are looking for some variety in food, there are plenty of eating places in the general area but they are limited. You have a choice of Western fast food, Malay or Indian.

That's about it. I found Tune met my needs for this stay. I'll probably return. Not sure when. They also have branches opening within the next year in other parts of Malaysia. Check out their website for details.

Footnote 28/12/08: I've returned again to Tune Hotel and have updated this post: here.

Labels: Asia, hotel, KL, Kuala Lumpur, travel